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A Family Hanukkah Party
By Devorah Stone

(Originally published in Amateur Chef, December '00.)

I start making latkes -- potato pancakes -- a week before the first night of Hanukkah, the Festival of Lights. We decorate our house with white and blue streamers and take out the menorah -- a nine-branched candleholder -- on the first night. As soon as everyone is home each evening of the festival, we gather around our menorah. We sing the blessings and everyone gets a turn to light a candle. Like Jewish people around the world, on the first night we light one candle (and the Shamash, the helper candle) and every night we add another one. On the last night, we light eight candles. We play a spinning top game of dreidel, in which we win pennies or buttons.

Every year we have a party on one of the nights with lots of latkes, an assortment of salads, rice dishes and lasagna; often, people bring their own homemade delights. We like a dairy vegetarian meal, but many other families eat brisket or chicken on their Hanukkah party. I put trays of frozen latkes in a hot oven and put them out as people gobble them up. The children strike a piZata made in the shape of a dreidel and filled with small toys, eat chocolate coins, and play the dreidel game. We all light the menorah and sing songs. A special cake tops the evening.

Hanukkah commemorates the Maccabean victory over Antiochus of Syria. The Maccabeans were a small group of shepherds and farmers who fought for their religious freedom. The small band defeated a large army. After their victory, only enough ritually prepared oil was left to light the temple menorah for one night. A miracle happened and the oil lasted for eight nights and days. Hanukkah is the festival of lights and a celebration of miracles.

At Hanukkah, little things matter. The lowly potato becomes a seasonal treat. The Hanukkah winter feast is prepared from basic everyday foods. Jewish people fry latkes in oil to remember the miracle of oil. Hanukkah food is comfort food. It warms the soul on long winter nights, like the lights of the menorah light up the darkness of the winter solstice. This year, Hanukkah starts on the night of December 21.

Jewish families the world over have their own customs. European Jews eat latkes. The Spanish brought the potato to Europe from the Peruvian Andes in the sixteenth century. Jewish people in the Pale settlement of Russia started to grow potatoes in the seventeenth century. Potatoes were easy to grow in small lots on poor soil. Jewish cooks soon learned many ways to cook and bake this most versatile of vegetables. Here are some tips and facts for latke-making:

• Russet or Yukon Gold potatoes are the best for traditional fried latkes.

• Draining the grated potatoes is essential to making crispy latkes.

• Your potatoes won't turn brown if you use a bit of liquid Vitamin C to coat the potatoes and make
them one batch at a time.

• Latkes were originally a Ukrainian recipe. Ukrainian cooks fried them in goose fat but North American cooks usually fry them in vegetable oil or shortening. I use Canola oil.

• Latkes are a side dish, breakfast food, snack, lunch or a light dinner or dessert. Whatever you want them to be!

• Serve them with apple sauce, cinnamon, brown sugar, jam or sour cream.

• No host wants to be in the kitchen for the entire party. Luckily, latkes freeze well in a sealed bag; just put them in a 400-degree oven for a few minutes before serving.

• Some latke fans swear hand-grated latkes taste better than latkes made with electric graters, but most people won't notice if you cheat. I can't tell the difference.

• Have a latke-making party and tell your guests to be prepared to grate and fry. You can organize your guests to handle chopping, mixing and frying tasks.

• Kids love helping make the latkes and eating them. Let your children help you measure out the ingredients and mix the batter. Carefully supervise young children around electric graters and frying
pans.

Here are three variations on the traditional latke recipe:

1. Potato and Zucchini Latkes

The tried-and-true traditional potato latke, but with a bit of zucchini and green onions for color and taste.

• 2 large Russet potatoes, peeled and grated
• ½ small zucchini, peeled and grated
• 1 green onion, finely chopped
• ½ cup of flour
• 3 eggs
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. oil
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Oil for frying

Squeeze the liquid from the grated potatoes and zucchini, separately. Mix them together and squeeze them again. Add the finely chopped green onion, eggs, baking powder, oil, salt and pepper to the grated vegetables. Add the flour while mixing. In a deep frying pan, pour 1" oil. Wait until oil is smoking, then drop a spoonful of mixture in the oil. Adjust temperature of oil as needed. Turn over latkes when golden brown. Place latkes on paper towels to drain oil. Serve hot or freeze when cool.

2. Yam Latkes

Yam latkes are a healthful, colorful alternative to plain potato latkes. Yams are low in fat and rich in vitamin A, potassium and beta-carotene.

• ¼ water
• 1 cup flour
• 2 eggs
• 1 grated large yam
• 1 tsp. ground cloves
• 1 tsp. ginger
• Oil for frying

Mix water, flour and eggs separately. Squeeze liquid from grated yams; add ground cloves and ginger. Stir together flour mixture with grated yams until there's an even consistency. Form mixture into 3" patties. Fry in 1" oil in a large frying pan, turning over as they turn brown. Adjust temperature as needed. Place patties on paper towels to drain oil. Serve hot.

3. Oven Potato Balls

For those who don't like deep-fried foods and don't like grating, here's an oven-baked potato ball recipe. It still has oil in it so it's in keeping with the Hanukkah tradition. This is a great recipe to make with children.

• 4 medium white potatoes
• 3 T. vegetable shortening
• 2 T. minced dehydrated onions
• ½ tsp. salt
• 1 ½ cups dry bread crumbs
• 1 egg, lightly beaten

Boil potatoes until just tender. Set aside until they cool down to room temperature. Mash the potatoes until they are an even consistency. Add softened vegetable shortening, onions, salt and bread crumbs to mashed potatoes. Stir or mush up with clean hands.

Using your hands, form the potato mixture into balls about the size of a small egg. Then brush egg mixture over each ball. Bake in a preheated oven at 425 F. for 20 minutes or until brown.

Menorah Cake

People's eyes pop out and their mouths water when they see the menorah cake!

• 2 chocolate cake mixes
• 6 eggs
• 2 cups water
• 1 cup orange juice
• 1 cup oil
• Icing
• Cake sprinkles

Bake two cakes separately in 9" x 13" pans using the instructions on the cake mix box. Add a ½ cup orange juice to every 1 cup of water. Let cakes cool. Draw out on a piece of paper, the size of one cake, a menorah with four and a half candles. Now cut cakes using your drawing as a template. Put the two cakes together, horizontally, with the half candles touching. The cake will now be in the shape of a nine-branched menorah. Using some of the left-over cake, cut out round shapes and put them on top of the menorah. Spread icing on cakes; use a different color for the "flames" above the menorah shape. Place sprinkles on each of the flames and decorate the rest of the cake.

Set the table and enjoy! Chag Samach! Happy Holiday!

 

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